How to Successfully Care and Maintain Tropical Fish
First I would like to say a few things. If you are going to call me a liar, do not email me. If you are not going to listen to me and take my advice don't even read this essay. I have owned fish all my life and have been a tropical fish hobbyist for 12 years. I know a lot and have cared for one of the hardest fish to care for who is also the most misunderstood. I also work at Petco where I reside in the aquatics and reptile departments. Feel free to print this out for your own reference.
The first thing you will need is a tank. The size of the tank all depends on the amount of space you have and your budget. The larger aquariums have a larger margin of error. The smaller tanks have a very low margin of error and you will have to pinpoint problems right away and fix them before it becomes a major problem, which happens fast in a smaller tank. There are also many designs and shapes of tanks out there. I would stay away from the long tanks for fish, but it also depends on the species of fish you are keeping. There are bow front tanks, hexagon tanks, and many others. Be creative and get the biggest size tank as your space and budget allows for as your first tank. A 10 gallon tank is a good idea if you are devoted and will be trying to become a great fish keeper. Fish are not a no-maintenance pet like most people seem to think. Another common misconception FISH DO NOT GROW WITH THE SIZE OF THE TANK! Fish will continue to grow no matter what. I'll go into more detail about that later.
Once you have a tank, you will need some other essentials. Ok, now you need to make the decision if you want a cold or tropical tank, meaning Goldfish or Tropical. Goldfish do not require a heater, but all and any tropical fish require a heater and with that you will need to get a thermometer. I'll go into fish specifics later. With all fish you will need a filter, hood with lights (fluorescent or incandescent), gravel, plants and decorations, and a water conditioner. I also recommend aquarium salt, stress coat, and a book.
THE FILTER: There are three main types of filters. They are the overhead, undergravel, and the canister. There are many brands of filters, so brand is a preference of the buyer. Smaller tanks and filters will be discussed later.
Overhead filters - The overhead filter is recommended for all tanks. They even make one for very smaller Betta tanks now called the nano filter. Anyway Overhead filters are great about keeping the water clean. Personally, I like Whisper and Proquatics. Every overhead filter no matter what brand it is will need a filter cartridge. They come with one when you buy the filter, but they will need t be cleaned and replaced. Depending on the fish you have and how many depends on hoe often your cartridge will need to be changed and replaced. You shouldn't be cleaning your cartridge more then twice a month and changing it more then once every 1 ½ to 2 months. If it is cleaned or changed too often you will be killing too much of the bacteria that needs to be present.
Undergravel filters I recommend undergravel filters for tanks 29 gallons and up. They provide added filtration for all aquariums and can be used for the smallest of tanks. I do not recommend them by themselves. If you decide on an undergravel filter you should also get an overhead filter system as well. Undergravel filters are great when used with an overhead filter. These filters need a little bit more work though, especially if they are used by themselves. You will need a gravel vac to vacuum the gravel and therefore cleaning under the filter as well. The filter traps everything under it and without gravel cleaning (the right way) a undergravel filter can be a deadly thing to fish. The ammonia will sky rocket and kill your fish. So keep in mind that you will need to clean. With an under gravel filter you will need to buy a pump, come connector pieces, and tubing. All are inexpensive except for the pump, but it all depends on the size of your tank. They also add more oxygen into the tank.
Canister filters Canister filters are by far the best and one of the most expensive filters you can buy. I would not recommend any other filter with a larger tank. This filter is great for larger tanks and salt water/reef tanks. This type of filter hangs out below your tank in the stand.
Wet-Dry Filters - Wet-Dry Filters are mainly used with salt water and do not use chemical filtration at all, so no carbon. They use various media, inckusing bio balls to form healthy colonies of bacteria to break down fish waste. They are very expensive and are usually found hidden in the stand. They are by far the best filter on the market today, especially for salt water tanks. I would choose no other for a salt water tank.
THE HEATER: like I mentioned earlier, if you want any type of tropical fish you will need a heater and a thermometer. Tropical fish require a temperature of between 76 80 degrees and Goldfish need temperatures of between 68 72 degrees and this is why Goldfish do not need a heater. You have to get the right sized heater to heat your tank size. I recommend submersible heaters. They are great and you can easily adjust the temperature where as on other heaters you cannot adjust the temp that easily. A thermometer tells you the temp in the tank at any given time. I recommend two for a larger tank one on each side. For larger tanks, place the heater in the center so it heats the whole tank.
WATER CONDITIONER, STRESS COAT, AQUARIUM SALT : When you set up a tank most of us use tap water. Tap water has chlorine and chloramines in it as well as heavy metals. Water conditioner takes these harmful substances out of the water and makes it safe for fish. Conditioner should be added to a new tank and with every water change. Stress coat boosts a fish's immune system and is great with helping with shock when adding them to a new tank. It also prevents loss of their slime coating when using a net or during times of stress. It's great to use when adding new fish to the tank with existing fish as well good for both the new fish and the existing fish. Aquarium salt helps get rid of and prevent illnesses. I use it for all my tanks. It boosts their immune system and reduces stress. It calms fish down as well, almost like a sedative. It will kill most parasites and bacteria and is great at preventing illness. This is especially important in a new aquarium. If you have snails in your tank, use aquarium salt lightly. Salt can kill snails if it is a significant amount. Always use less then suggested for your tank if you have snails. NEVER use table salt or marine salt in a freshwater aquarium.
----------------------------Setting up Your Tank---------------------
Now it's time to set up your tank! This is the most exciting part of the fish tank beside getting and maintaining your fish. If you have an under gravel filter this is the time to add it to the tank before the gravel. Then place all gravel and water in the tank. You can be the decorations in before the water, but I recommend after the water if you have standing plants (live or plastic). It all depends on your preference. The more creative you are with the decorations, the better so have fun! Do not even the gravel out. Fish like the bumps and lumps. J After all the water is added, set up your overhead filter. Then add your water conditioner. You may also add some aquarium salt at this time as well. After everything is set and ready to go you need to wait a few days to add fish. Depending on the size of your tank, you may have to wait a week before adding any fish. I have a chart below for you.
Tank Size: Time Needed
1 5 gallon tanks: 3 days
10 gallon tanks: 3 - 5 days
20 40 gallon tanks: one week
50 gallon and up: at least one week
----------------------------Adding the First Fish---------------------
Ok, before adding fish you have to decide which type of fish you want. But for now I'll just explain the basics of adding the first fish and explain the different fish later on. When you add that first fish you start the cycling of the tank. Any and all fish tanks must go through a cycle before it gets established. Let me explain .
When the first fish is introduced into a new tank it starts urinating and defecating almost immediately. The waste creates a build up of ammonia which can quickly reach to toxic levels and it will. When the ammonia becomes elevated enough, bacteria form and break down the ammonia into Nitrites. Nitrites are also toxic to fish. Another bacteria will form and break down the Nitrites into Nitrates. Nitrates can be toxic but at extremely high levels. As long as you keep up on your maintenance your Nitrates will not become high enough to cause damage. This cycle takes 4 6 weeks and sometimes even 8 weeks to complete. You may lose fish during this time.
In a new tank you cannot add many fish to start with. The number of fish you want to add depends on the size of your tank and may even depend on the size of the fish you get if they are large. Again, I have made a chart for you below. All of these stand for small to medium sized fish. Very small tetras like the Neon Tetra can include more; larger fish are less in number.
Tank Size: Number of Fish To Start
1 5 gallon: 1 fish
10 gallon: 2 fish (exception is goldfish)
20 gallons: 3 - 4 fish
29 40 gallon: 4 5 fish
50 - 55 gallon: 5 6 fish
70 80 gallons: 6 - 7 fish
90 100 gallons: 8 9 fish
110 up: 10 fish
You want to get the least amount of fish for your tank to start the cycle. You may lose quite a bit of fish during this time due to the ammonia spike the tank will go through. I suggest getting the least amount of fish to start with and then gradually working your way up. I also suggest getting the hardy fish of the group you choose. After you add the first fish you need to wait at least a week and a half to two weeks before adding any more fish and that is only if your other fish are doing fine. Only add a few new fish. You do not want to shock the tank by adding too many fish at one time and have your cycle disrupted. Adding too many fish will cause a drastic increase in the amount of ammonia in your tank and your newly established bacteria will not be able to break it down because not enough bacteria has formed yet. To determine the amount a full tank can have depends on the size of you tank and a general rule: at full grown, 1 inch of fish per gallon of water. There are a few exceptions. Email me for any specific questions and about individual tanks.
----------------------------Maintaining Your Tank---------------------
There is more then just setting up a tank and feeding your fish. In order to keep your fish happy and healthy there are some things you must do. First most important thing is to NEVER CHANGE OUT ALL THE WATER AND CLEAN EVERYTHING. If you do this you remove all the bacteria that you need. It's like starting your tank all over and your fish will die. The Filter cartridge doesn't need to be changed all too often. If it gets dirty clean it, but generally the cartridge only needs to be changed about every 2 months and cleaned out about once every two weeks if that. The whole filter doesn't need to be cleaned often at all. I usually leave it for 3 4 months before I clean the entire filter out, unless there is a blockage or it's just really dirty.
After your tank is established you much do regular water changes to keep your nitrate level down to normal levels. Change about 10% - 15% of the water every two weeks or 25% every month. Clean the gravel out once a month using a gravel vac. This will remove any old food and waste as well as nitrates in the gravel. If you have an undergravel filter this is extremely important. Do not clean the gravel at any time. This is where most of your bacteria reside.
Your fish tank needs a light. This light will add natural nutrients and vitamins and minerals to the water that your fish need. The light must not be left on all the time. General rule is 12 hours on and 12 hours off. The temperature in a fresh water tropical tank needs to be between 76 80 degrees Farenheight. A sick fish will benefit with a temperature of 80 degrees.
Weekly or bi weekly testing of your water is a great way to watch for rising PH, Ammonia, and Nitrates. This is very important to a smaller tank. If one thing does off by just a little the whole tank will suffer fast and you may lose some or even all of your fish. Illness and problems travel fast in a smaller tank.
To keep algae down you will need to clean the inside of the tank glass every so often and it's a good idea to buy a fish that will eat algae. Snails will also eat algae and old fish food. Another way to keep algae down would be to reduce the amount of time you have your light on. Also, never place your fish tank near a window or near a air conditioner or heater vent. There are also products on the market that will get rid of algae for you.
Feeding is usually a conflict when first starting a tank. Only feed your fish once a day. If you feed twice a day just reduce the one feeding and split it in two. If you overfeed your fish they will die. Fish do not need to eat a lot. Their stomachs are very tiny. If feeding flake food break it down into small amounts. The general rule is to feed your fish as much as they will ea in 5 minutes. I don't necessary agree with this one. I think 5 minutes is a bit too long, but you can decide on your own. Just make sure all your fish are getting food. Sometimes greedy top feeders will eat all the food before any of the bottom feeders get any. Some fish need special food, which I will discuss in a bit. There are many different types of food out there. Flake, pellets, discs, live, frozen and medicated. I use and recommend Tetra Min Tropical Fish Flakes and San Francisco Bay Frozen Foods.
----------------------------Finally The Fish---------------------
You can't just place that fish with this fish because they look pretty. That fish may be an oscar and this fish may be a tetra. Well the tetra will be no more really quickly. This section is designed to introduce you to the different types of fish and to help you decide which fish can go peacefully in your tank. First let's look at the different groups and types of fish there are out there for your tank. Keep in mind that not all fish are listed here. If you have any questions about a certain fish, please do not hesitate to email me and ask.
The peaceful Fish
This group is the most diverse and colorful of the Freshwater Tropical Fish. I will explain each group as best I can and if you have any technical questions please just email me. Let's begin:
The Platy, Molly and Swordtail:
Platies, Mollies, and Swordtails make great first fish and are very peaceful and hardy. They are one of the easiest fish to keep and easiest to breed if you are starting to breed fish. These fish come in a wide variety of color. They are livebearers, which make them so easy to breed. Live bearers mean that they don't lay eggs. When the babies are born they are live. Livebearers will breed readily and constantly. These fish tend to be about 2 - 3 inches at full grown. They are easy to keep and very hardy which makes them good starter fish for a new tank or a new fish keeper. These fish are top feeders. You can tell this by looking at their mouth, which is upturned.
Molly Tend to be fatter then Platies and Swordtails. There is something very distinct about a Molly that separates it from Platies and Swordtails.
Platy Female Platies can sometimes be mistaken for Swordtails, but Swordtails tend to be more slender then Platies.
Swordtails Swordtails tend to be more slender then Mollies and Platies. Males also have a sword tail. Their back fin has a long slender extension on it.
It's easy to sex these fish. You can do this by looking at their back bottom fin. A pointy fin indicated a male and a rounded fin indicates a female. Look at the picture below.
**pic comming soon!**
Guppies
Guppies are in a lot of ways similar to Platies, Swordtails, and Mollies. They are live bearers and breed easily as well. They are slender fish with colorful bodies and tails. Guppies come in a wide variety of color. Some are metallic or even tiger stripped. Prices depend o the variety of Guppy. I have seen some go for $15 each. At Petco we sell all varieties at one price, which is rare. Guppies will breed continuously and non stop, so before getting a male and female do some research to see exactly what you are getting into. Guppies get about 2 3 inches at full grown. Like the other livebearers, you can easily tell male from female. Males have the pointed back fin and females have the rounded back fin. In most pet stores, males and females are separated.
Small Tetras and the White Cloud
Small tetras consist of Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Glowlight Tetras, Penguin Tetras, Black Neon Tetras, Red Eyed Tetra, Bleeding Heart Tetra, Lemon Tetra, and a few others. The White Cloud is often found in this group as well. Tetras are colorful little fish and most only reach 2 3 inches at full grown. Neon Tetras only stay 2 inches. These fish are schooling fish and need groups or 3 or more to live happily in your tank. Tetras are a hardy fish and great for the beginner hobbyists. This group is also good for smaller tanks, but they must have a filter and a heater, as do all tropical fish.
Large Tetras
Large tetras consist of Buenos Aries Tetra, Serpae Tetra, Long Finned Serpae Tetra, Black Skirt Tetra, White Skirt Tetra, and a few others. These tetras are considered peaceful, but they are territorial and need a larger tank to live peacefully with most fish. They should not be kept with smaller tetras unless you have a big enough tank (26 gallon and up).
Corydoras Catfish
There are many different kinds of Cory Cats. A few include the Green Cory, Spotted Cory, Panda Cory, Albino Cory, and the Juli Cory. There are many more species of Cory then I listed. Cory cats are great for most all aquariums. They are peaceful and will clean your tank of fish waste, food, and algae. All bottom feeders need to be supplemented with algae chips once in a while, this is especially so with the Pleco which I will discuss later. These fish are active and fun to watch. They like to live in groups better then alone. Cory cats vary in size, but most get up to 3 4 inches.
Upside Down Catfish
Upside Down Cats are in many ways like the Cory Catfish. The Upside Down Cat actually swims upside down and tend to get bigger then the Cory. They can get up to 5-6 inches. They are top feeders unlike normal catfish. Once in a while you can see them right side up, but not often. These catfish are rare and expensive, usually $6- $7 depending on where you go. They are peaceful. These guys can get up to 5 6 inches.
Plecostomus (Pleco)
Plecos are very peaceful fish, but when a fish dies they are the first at the scene. These guys will grow to 18 inches in length with proper diet and tank size. THEY DO NOT GROW WITH THE TANK! As with all fish, they will continue to grow regardless of the tank size. Some are slow growers and some are fast growers. It depends on the fish. I have seen them 18 inches and some customers at Petco have informed me that they can get a bit bigger. I do not recommend these guys for a 10 gallon tank, unless you keep the tank with just a very small number of fish AND you will be upgrading to a larger tank. There are babies sold in the pet store as well as medium to large size, but they will grow fast. The number one cause of death for these guys is starvation. Imagine living in a room and never getting food that you can eat. After a month you die of starvation. This is how these guys die. They are slow to die, but will die if not given the right food. Plecos need algae to live. If you do not have enough algae you will need to buy algae chips to put in the tank for them. They are also night time fish and prefer to eat at night.
Otocinclus Catfish
These algae eaters only get to be about 2 inches and are a great choice for a 10 gallon or less fish tank. They are just like the plecos, but smaller. They do a wonderful job at keeping the tank clean and free of algae. Like all algae eaters, they need the algae chips as well. They are cute little guys and one of my favorite.
Zebra Danio and Giant Danio
Danios are schooling fish and prefer to be in groups of three or more. If they are not in a group the adults can become aggressive / territorial with other fish. Danios only get to be about 2 3 inches and even come in the long fined variety. A new variety, the red Danio, is rare and not yet found in pet stores. The Giant Danio is also a schooling fish and the same rules apply. These guys can reach up to 4 5 inches and really should not be keep with smaller tetras such as the Neon Tetra. A group of either of these guys will chase each other around the tank happily and leave other fish alone. They need the company of other Danios.
The Semi-Aggressive Fish
This group is not as varied or colorful as the peaceful fish, but it is also my favorite of all the fish. My 55 gallon is a Semi-aggressive tank. These fish tend to get very large compared to most fish.
Sharks
There are many different types of sharks. I will be briefly discussing most. These guys like to be at least in pairs. NONE of these guys are for a 10 gallon tank unless you get very small babies and will upgrade. They also tend to grow pretty fast, especially with the right diet. The sharks are scale less fish and can get sick easy, so you must keep up with your water quality and temperatures. You can read about the Iridescent Shark on my Iridescent Shark page. They can reach sizes of over 3 feet long. Please read my page before you go and get one. Bala Sharks will get 13 inches long, Redtailed Sharks will get 6 inches long, and Rainbow and Albino Rainbow Sharks will get 5 inches. Other sharks include the Spooted Pim (Pictus) Cat, White Tipped Shark, and the Tricolor Shark. Each getting as big as the other sharks. These guys should not be with small fish due to their large size.
Angels
Angels can be semi-aggressive to aggressive fish. They get fairly large and will attack most fish. They are very territorial when they become young adults and adults. The small babies are considered peaceful, but when they grow up just a little watch out. Angels are very hard to care for. They are very delicate fish and the smallest change in water conditions will kill them easily.
Dwarf Gourami
Dwarf Gourami are not as aggressive as Gourami and only reach about 3 inches. They can be kept with most of the peaceful fish. Never place in a tank with Gouramis. They will kill each other.
Gourami
Gourami are very territorial and considered semi aggressive fish. They can be kept with somepeaceful fish if they are kept in a 25 gallon or larger tank. Gouramis get up to 5 6 inches. Never place with Dwarf gourami, they will kill each other. They are very pretty and come in a wide range of color.
Pink Kissing Gourami
These guys are cute and pink. The males kiss each other and they may also kiss your finger. They may be fine with other fish for a while, but when they get bigger, watch out! I had one that tried to kill my 7 inch long Iridescent sharks! These guys get really large (6 8 inches) and should be keep in pairs, especially if you want to get their attention off other fish.
African Butterfly Fish
My first experience with these guys almost sent me flying to the floor. I thought it was a log before it moved! They are interesting fish. They can reach up to 11-13 inches and WILL eat smaller fish, especially smaller fish that stay near the top. The Butterfly Fish stay at the surface of the water unless stressed or sick. They actually look ugly and have every large mouths, but if you look at them from the top they look like butterflies and very pretty ones at that! I fell in love, but I missed my opportunity to have one when a customer bought the last one. L I really want one of these guys. They need frozen or live food in addition to flake or pellets. These guys are expensive.
Chinese Algae Eaters
These guys are peaceful when young, but will reach sizes of 6 inches or more and become aggressive towards other smaller fish. They can come in a few different colors. They do a great job at keeping the tank clean.
Loaches
There are many different kinds of loaches out there and they can reach different lengths. The tend to be a bit territorial and I recommend staying away from smaller fish for this reason. They are very interesting and even sleep on their sides as if dead. They are timid and you must provide somewhere to hide like a cave or log of some sort. Clown loaches will eat snails. Clown Loaches are also prone to Ich when young. Some of these guys are expensive depending on the variety you buy. I just got three Marble loaches for $19 each, which is cheap for Marble Loaches.
Barbs
Up till recently I thought these guys all very aggressive, but was told and proven wrong. Barbs include the Tigar Barbs, Albino Tigar Barbs, Green Tigar Barbs, Rosey Barbs Cherry Barbs, Tinfoil Barb, and Others. These guys can be very aggressive if their fin nipping behavior is not taken into consideration. They need to be in a large tank (26 and up) and kept in odd number groups with the smallest number being three. They will chase each other and leave everyone else alone. Even Number groups do not do good. I actually just added three Cherry Barbs to my tank after a fellow employee had suggested them. She was the one who opened my eyes to these great little guys. By the way some tend to get big, like the Tigar Barbs and Tinfoil Barbs.
The Aggressive Fish
This group has its own personality and they can be very picky as to who can be their tank mates.
Cichlids
Ok, you have African, South American, and American and I believe a few others. You cannot mix the different Cichlids!!!!!!!! I cannot stress that enough. You cannot place a African Cichlid with a South American Cichlid. You will end up with dead fish. These guys cannot go with snails or crabs either. They will kill them. They eat shellfish. A large Pleco MAY be fine with them, it depends on your fish. Oscars fall into the South American Cichlid category as do Severnes (sorry, may be spelled wrong) and Jack Demseys. These guys can ONLY go in with other Cichlids. African Cichlids may be ok with large sharks, but I wouldn't risk it. These guys can also go in with the African Gar and Freshwater eels. Please email me with questions on these fish. Most of the time these guys are fed common goldfish, Roseys, and cichlid pellets. They also love veggies! Oscars need veggies and pellets as well as live foods or they will get hole in the head.
Others
Also in aggressive fish are the eels, Arawana, Paco, and Parina.
Other Fish and Invertebrates
Betta
Bettas are beautiful and very interesting fish. Unlike other fish, they breathe oxygen. There are other fish that do this, but very few and most will not be found in the home aquarium. Male bettas are very colorful and have long fins. They can be any color imaginable, but don't let their looks confuse you. They will fight to the death if you place two males together. NEVER PLACE TWO MALES TOGETHER! They fiercely defend their territory. The males also make beautiful bubble nests when they are ready to breed. Breeding will be hard. The male is likely to kill at least two females before choosing a mate. He will also kill the female while defending the eggs he places in his bubble nest. You can place males in with other fish as long as they are not colorful, like guppies and for some reason they hate goldfish. They shouldn't be keep with goldfish anyway. It's always a risk when adding a betta in with any fish. Some bettas will attack and kill any fish, some won't. It depends on the particular fish. I have had both attitudes along with a few others. My one betta I have now in my 55 gallon hates any and all goldfish. I also have a goldfish tank and he just hates them!
Betta Care Bettas can live in a bowl and they are just about the only fish that could. You will need to change the water out once a week and add water conditioner before you add the fish. It's best to use purified water or bottled water for your betta. There is a wide variety of betta food out there. They range from pellets to flakes to live to dead worms ect. Choose the one you prefer and the one your betta will eat. I feed mine the flakes and I give frozen brine shrimp as a treat. Only feed your fish once a day and not all the much. And remember, most Bettas in pet stores are wild caught, so age determination can be difficult. They can live about 3 5 years with proper care.
Goldfish
Goldfish make great pets and they live long, but they can be very dirty. Remember that all goldfish can reach 12 inches no matter what size tank you have them in. Goldfish are coldwater fish and require temperatures between 68 and 72 degrees Farenheight. They also produce a ton of waste which causes the ammonia to spike constantly. The ammonia will be high in a goldfish tank. Both of these facts are reasons why tropical fish cannot be with goldfish. The ammonia will kill them and the temperature is way too low. Tropical fish need temperatures of 76 to 80 degrees Farenheight. Even if you have had a tropical fish in with the goldfish and he looks fine, he really is not. He will not live to his full expectations and he will be a sickly fish inside and miserable until he eventually dies. Goldfish also need different foods then Tropical fish. Goldfish need Goldfish food. Frozen and freeze dried food is fine for Goldfish as treats as well. There are also many different kinds of goldfish out there.
Goldfish Care Goldfish really need a filter, which is not what most people think. Goldfish, as I have stated earlier, will produce a lot of waste which will cause the ammonia to be high in the tank. If you do not have a filter the water must be changed twice a week. There are smaller filters on the market that are great for smaller tanks. I use a small world filter that sticks to the side of the tank since my filter blew. My tank is a 5 ½ gallon and it still works great! They are inexpensive and a great asset to a Goldfish Tank. The small world filter kit I have cost $15 for the whole setup. The fish adding rule is also different with Goldfish. It is three Goldfish per 10 gallon tank. There are some exceptions. The large Organda needs at least a 40 gallon. You cannot place three goldfish in a 2 gallon tank! You will quickly kill your fish. They need to be feed once a day. The only companions you can place with Goldfish are crabs, snails, and Goldfish. NOT CLEANING FISH! They are all tropical fish. Goldfish can also do really well in a pond with some Koi or by themselves.
Koi
Koi are not Goldfish! They are in the same family, but get MUCH bigger and have whiskers. Koi can be expensive and must not be added to a tank. They are pond only fish! These fish can reach 2 - 4 feet in length. They will not survive in a tank. Koi like to jump, so make high rock beds around your pond so you don't lose your fish. Koi eat Koi sticks, or pond fish food.
Fiddler Crabs
These little crabs will get out of a tank that does not have a complete top. They will climb everything! The males have the long fancy big claw as well as a small claw and the females have two small claws. These guys can be aggressive and try to grab your fish as they swim by. I would recommend the females if you have a tank with small fish or fish with long fins, or even bottom feeders. They are also territorial. Males will fight. They will clean the bottom of the tank of fish waste and food. Cichlids will eat these guys!
Crayfish
Crayfish will kill and eat your fish. They are territorial, but very interesting. They will clean the bottom of the tank as well. Cichlids will eat these guys!
Ghost Shrimp
Most fish will eat these guys, but smaller fish may leave them alone especially if they have plenty of places to hide. They need algae to survive, so again you will need to keep a supply of algae chips around the house for them. They will also keep the tank clean. These guys are very cheap, usually around 45 to 99 cents each.
Snails
There are many different snails out there. All snails can reproduce with just one, but many rarely do. The Apple snail seems not to be able to. Ramhorn snails and those tiny snails you see in pet stores in all the tanks will reproduce a lot and quickly! Snails can be with any fish except with Cichlids and Clown Loaches. Both will eat snails. Turtles will do the same. Snails also need the algae chips to survive. They can get big and live a long time if properly cared for. They don't use lots of oxygen, so you can pretty much have as many as you would like. They will keep your tank clean.
Frogs
African Dwarf Frogs are what they are called. These guys will get 6 inches and will eat small fish when they get a bit larger. I do not recommend these guys with any fish. They get pretty big, get claws, and eat fish. It's as simple as that. They also need frog and tadpole food. Definitely not a good idea for bettas!
Common Illnesses and Water Condition Problems
You should inspect your fish daily to make sure they are not getting sick or stressed. Look for clamped fins, white spots, fuzzy patches, red spots, listlessness, frayed fins, ect. The earlier a problem is found, the easier to treat and the better for the fish. Water should be tested weekly for Ammonia, nitrates, PH, and in some placed hardness. Temperature should be checked daily with the fish. It's best to keep new fish quarantined, especially if you are not an expert at seeing illness. I can easily find a sick fish, but that's because I've been in the fish hobby for 12 years and have had fish all my life. Do not mix different types of medicines. Usually the same brands can be mixed, read the labels. There are more fish diseases and then I mention below. These are just the more common diseases and problems. If you have any questions about any other disease or problem that I did not mention, please just email and ask. I'll be happy to answer your questions.
Ich, AKA White Spot
This is a very common and contagious disease of fish. This starts as little white spots that are barely visible and grow to many and larger white spots. It caught early it cab be cured with very little difficulty, but this is over all semi difficult to cure. With the right medicines your fish will be fine. With many diseases it's best to separate sick fish, but I disagree with Ich. It goes through water like wildflower. In a larger tank, if caught early, a sick fish can be removed, but keep a good eye on your other fish. The most common cause of Ich is stress. That is why pet store fish are prone to Ich. Iridescent sharks are extremely prone to Ich when young. If you have an Irrie in your tank, forget about separating the sick fish treat the whole tank and use some preventative measures as well. Some fish are just prone to Ich.
To prevent Ich, use stress coat when adding new fish, transferring fish, adding medications, cleaning the tank, ect. There is also an Ich preventative on the market. It is made by Kordon fish supplies. The name of this is Prevent Ich. It's 100% organic and safe. This is good to use when adding new fish as well. Another great product is aquarium salt. Everything boosts the fish's immune system and helps fight disease. Prevent Ich will help stop the spread of Ich and is great to use if a fish gets Ich and you also have Iridescent sharks in or tank or another fish that is prone to Ich.
To cure Ich there are numerous products on the market. I like Rid Ich, by Kordon. You can use Prevent Ich and Rid Ich at the same time. Stress coat is also great to use before you add the medicine. I would also use aquarium salt as well. Only use as the labels suggest. At the moment (5/6/04) my new fish have Ich. I caught it early and am treating with Prevent Ich and Rid Ich. I have two Iridescent sharks. I also have aquarium salt in my tank and I'm using stress coat. I'm also feeding San Francisco frozen brine shrimp enriched with spirulina, which also boosts immune systems. Yes, my water is cloudy form the prevent Ich and green from the Rid Ich, but the Ich has not spread beyond my three new fish and they are getting better. Yea, my $19 marble loaches (Botia). The tank at work is also now quarantined and being treated, Yay
Fin Rot
Fin Rot can be hard to diagnosis. Only a trained eye can tell early stages of Fin Rot from damaged and nipped fins. They almost look exactly alike. Even if I tried to explain it I would be confusing you and probably me in the process! It's hard to explain. Sometimes a fish will get caught in the filter or the strong current and fray his fins. Fin Rot is a common disease and can be related to stress, but not nearly as much as Ich. Fin Rot usually occurs with bad water conditions or temperature. Their fins will literally rot away till they are no more. If you noticed frayed fins, watch your fish closely. If it does not get better, or seems to get worse treat it. Just as a warning, a Betta in a filtered tank may get Frayed fins if the current is strong. If not treated with the right medication, this can be deadly and very hard to cure. I only recommend Myacin from Aquatronics. Every other medicine I have used has been too slow to work and the fish have died. This can be hard to find in some states (Colorado), but specialty fish stores will have it. This treats most problems and quickly. You should also use it with aquarium salt to enhance the effects and boost the fish's immune system.
Eye Cloud / Mouth Rot / Fungus
These two usually are seen together, but not always. This occurs from a fungus and presents as white patches over the eyes and mouth. Both can be cured with many over the counter medications that you can find in a pet store. I recommend Myacin again for this one as well. Jungle also puts out Fungus Cure that will help. Now, if your fish has any type of fungus he will have white fuzz, or patches, on his body, eyes, or mouth. They could be present on his fins as well. Aquarium Salt helps great.
Dropsy
Dropsy is a hard disease to describe. It occurs mainly in Mollies, but any fish can get this. The fish may seem very lethargic and listless. He may seem totally fine, just highly depressed. There are many medications for this and it is a hard thing to treat. You fish may even start swimming upside down. The scales are usually sticking up as well.
Hole in the Head
Hole in the Head is a common disease of Oscars and occurs if the fish are only feed live foods. Oscars need veggies and cichlid pellets as well. This takes a while to cure, but can be done. You will need a medication that specifically says that it will cure Hole in the Head. Also start feeding veggies and cichlid pellets.
Popeye
Popeye usually occurs because of high nitrates in the water. It can be treated with a fungal medication, but if high nitrates are the cause the fish will continue to get it or will never be rid of it. I reccomend you test your water and correct that as well.
Septicemia
Septicemia presents as red streaks running along the fish. This is a bacterial infection that has entered the blood. It can be treated. Early detection and healthy watre is the key.
Cloudy Water
True cloudy water can be an indication of many things. The mosty common reason is high ammonia. Other indications can inclued high nitrates, changes in tempurature and ph, and a new tank or large water change. If more then 25% of teh water is removed at a time you start kiling bacteria, which will harm the fish. When this bacteria starts to develop again the water will get cloudy. Same as a new tank - when your bacteria starts to form the water will get cloudy. Never add chemicals to a new tank, you will kill the bacteria and could in turn kill the fish. Water conditioner is a must and is ok to add to a new tank. Fix the existing problem first. Tanks can also get cloudy for no reason at all. In this case you can use a chemical to clear it up. Sparkling clear works great. If there is something wrong with your water and you try the sparkling clear of a simular product without testing your water it will not work.
Dirty Water
The filter hsould clean the water. If you have dirty water then you are probably over feeding you fish.
High Ammonia
Ammonia is very toxic to fish even in small amounts. Test your water regularly to make sure you do not get a problem. There are a few reasons why your ammonia would be high a overcrowded tank, a new tank, filter problem, or Goldfish. Think about each of these and try to correct the problem. Too many fish will produce too much ammonia and the bacteria will not be able to break it down fast enough. As I described earlier, a new tank will cause a spike in ammonia until the bacteria form and the tank fully cycles. Filter problems could be a broken motor, neglected filter, or undergravel filter. If it's your undergravel filter your water tests will also reveal high Nitrates.
High Nitrites / Nitrites Present
The only reason a tank would be high in Nitrites would be a new tank that has not finished cycling. Otherwise Nitrites would be zero. You could also have nitrites if you continually use stress zyme. Do not continue to use stress zyme, it is only intending to start a tank and not maintain it.
High Nitrates
It takes a lot to have high enough nitrates to start harming fish. Nitrates are general harmless, unless in very large amounts. High Nitrates can mean a few reasons: You have not kept up with regular water changes and gravel cleaning (gravel vac!), overfeeding, or you have an undergravel filter. You must perform your regular water changes that I have specified earlier as well as gravel cleaning, and I mean vacuuming the gravel with a gravel vac. Never remove the gravel to wash it. You will kill all your good bacteria since most live in the gravel and attached to decorations as well as in the filter itself. Undergravel filters trap everything under them, so after months of build up your tank will have toxic levels of Nitrate. If this is the case, even doing your water changes, gravel vac, and using Amquel Plus (Kordon) will not change the level of Nitrates. It may start to go down, then sky rocket again. If this happens take out your undergravel filter. Again do not wash the gravel or plants. Other then undergravel filters and maintenance, overfeeding can contribute to high Nitrates.
Algae
If you have an algae problem there are a few things you need to ask yourself. How often do you leave the light on for? Does your tank get direct sunlight? What kind of fish do you have? All these questions will help us solve your algae problem. The lighting rule is no more then 8 hours of light. You may want to reduce the amount of time your light is on. Maybe switch it to 6 hours on or less. If you tank gets direct sunlight your tank will have algae! A fish tank should not be getting direct sunlight in the first place. And the last question is just as important. I would first suggest an algae eater, but it depends on the size of your tank and the kind of fish you have. A Pleco does a great job, but should not be in a 10 gallon tank and can't be kept in anything smaller. Some Cichlids will kill the Pleco. Chinese Algae eaters get 6 inches and not recommended for a 10 gallon tank and can't be kept in anything smaller. They can get aggressive with smaller fish when they get larger. The Otocinclus Catfish is an excellent choice for a 10 gallon tank and smaller and they do a great job. They must be in a heated tank, so make sure your small tank is heated. They get 2 inches at most. They are peaceful and can't be kept with sharks, Gouramis, or Cichlids. Snails are the ONLY algae eater that can go with Goldfish! Snails are great at cleaning algae and they will do a great job at it. They are great for smaller unheated tanks as well. All the algae eaters I mentioned must be fed Algae chips when all the algae is gone or there is low amounts in the tank. Algae may also form in a well established tank signifying a healthy tank. Plants do not form algae, but may contribute to it due to their demand of artificial light. Another major cause of algae is a algae bloom, which can occur when the temperature changes drastically.
Then you can go the chemical way. There are many products to rid a tank of algae. Jungle makes a product that will rid your tank of algae. I prefer Algae Destroyer. I believe it's made by Kordon, but I'm not sure.
Well . I believe that concludes my Report here. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me. I'll be happy to answer any questions you have. If I missed a point you would like me to add, just say so. If I think of anything else I'll include it. Before I close this long report, I'll tell you about my fish keeping.
What can I say, I've been actively in the Tropical Fish Hobby for 12 years now and have had fish all my life. I first got a 10 gallon tank. A few years of running that I added 2 Iridescent sharks to it. That's when I grew a passion of the guys and have never been without them since. Anyway they outgrew my 10 gallon QUICK, so I upped to a 20 gallon. When I moved to Colorado I had to leave my tank behind, so I brought the few fish I had in a 10 gallon. Now I have a 55 gallon, a 5 ½ gallon, a 2 ½ gallon, and a small betta tank. I'm about to purchase another 50 gallon tank and when I move to PA I'm going to be getting a 100 gallon tank and I want a 29 gallon bow front to start a small saltwater tank. And here are the fish I have had in the past or have now:
Iridescent Shark, Albino Iridescent Sharks, Red Tailed Shark, Rainbow Shark, Spotted Pim Cats, Neon Tetra, Cardinal Tetra, all different kinds of Cory Cats, YoYo Loache, Marble Loach, Silver Hatchet Fish, Upside Down Catfish, Glass Catfish, Chinese Algae Eaters, Ghost Shrimp, Angels, Platy, Swordtail, Guppies, Goldfish, Pleco, Giant Danio, Zebra Danio, Long Finned Danio, Betta, Red Eyed Tetra, snails, Fiddler crabs, Frogs (not in with fish), and I know there are a ton that I am failing to mention.
My Current Tanks and Fish:
55 gallon 2 Iridescent Sharks, 3 Red Tailed Sharks, 3 Giant Danios, 2 Marble Loaches, 2 Plecos, 6 red eyed tetras, 4 Green Cory Catfish, 3 Opaline Gourami, a Betta, 3 Cherry Barbs, two Yellow Angels, 1 Dojo Loach and 2 Spotted Pictus Cats. I also have some live plants in there. I also have many black mystery snails that were given to me by a customer and I also have a golden snail.
My Gldfish Tank I have 2 small goldfish and one Rosey.
My Bettas - I have 8! Rain, Ice, Snow, Draco, Jimmy, Eclipse, Skittles, and Scarlet.
as always, click the bunny to go home. :)
